Dobrý Den* from Prague

Yesterday: Berlin, Germany

View of Prague from Prague castle

*”Good Day” in Czech

Beautiful architecture in Prague Square

I didn’t know a lot about Prague before I visited. Most of my knowledge came from the multitudes of people who told me how beautiful it was, and the play Rock and Roll by Tom Stoppard, which I saw with my dad a few years ago. On Sunday evening, Stephanie and I took a train from Berlin through the German countryside (and past Dresden, which I enjoyed as I was reading a novel by Kurt Vonnegut at the time) and into the Czech Republic. As soon as we arrived, I understood why people think the city is so beautiful. Even at night, I could see so many different kinds of architecture, which I love. Also, like Germany, most people we encountered spoke some English which was good because, unlike Germany, I don’t know a single word of Czech. We met up with Liz and Rachelle, who were coming in from Sevilla, and Jovita, who had spent the weekend in Amsterdam, and had a quick dinner before turning in for the night.

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“Ich bin ein Berliner”*

Alexanderplatz had some great outdoor markets

* Apparently, this does NOT actually mean “I am a jelly donut,” despite the urban legend that JFK messed up his grammar and compared himself to a pastry.

When most people think of spring break, they think of warm weather and sun, beaches and bathing suits. However, living in the south of Spain, where the temperature is almost always at least 20 degrees Celsius, we get plenty of warmth and sun. And beaches aren’t really my thing, at least not for an entire week, so when I was thinking about what to do during Semana Santa, there was no place to go but up. Up north, that is. Last Friday, my friend Stephanie and I flew to from Sevilla to Barcelona to Germany to begin our spring break trip in Berlin. If we were looking for a contrast to Sevilla’s warm and sunny weather, we found it; the weather in Berlin was cold and rainy two out of the three days we were there, and there was even some thunder and hail! But that didn’t stop us. We met up with Steph’s roommate from her university back home (she’s studying in Paris) and we were on our way.

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Kaixo to Basque Country!

Peine del Viento: The Wind Comb

This past weekend, while half of the students in my program were in Granada (I’m going this upcoming weekend!), and my roommate was in Paris, I took off on my own for the north: to Bilbao and San Sebastián. After deciding that Vueling is definitely my favourite low-cost airline (they let you have a carry-on and a purse! Anyone who has ever flown Ryanair knows what a big deal this is), I took a bus to San Sebastián and I immediately fell in love with the city! The walk from the bus station to the hostel was along a river and crossed a bridge just before it reached the ocean. The hostel I stayed in, Olga’s Place (highly recommended!) was just a block from the ocean. After I checked in, I decided to take a walk along the beach. La Playa de la Concha stretches in a curve around the edge of the city. Even though it was foggy and not particularly warm (a nice change from the heat in Sevilla, I must admit), that didn’t stop people from going to the beach. I saw so many people walking, playing with their dogs, even kayaking and surfing in the (freezing) water.

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“Wrecking Ball,” Bruce Springsteen (2012): 4.5/5 stars

I haven’t listened to the album enough times to say for sure, but I think “Wrecking Ball” is Bruce Springsteen’s best since 2002’s “The Rising.” I’m sure there will be some who say it’s his best in even longer than that (one review I read called it his best since the 80s), but I just really, really love “The Rising.” Either way, Springsteen has had a lot on his plate lately; in his personal/musical life was the death of long-time friend and saxophone player Clarence Clemons last year, and in his professional life… well, as one of the most well-known protest singers of the last forty years, and with so much to protest lately, I’m sure I’m not the only one wondering what the Boss would have to say.

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Ten Thousand Saints by Eleanor Henderson (2011): 4.5/5 stars

I first picked up Ten Thousand Saints because I thought it was cool that it was written by an Ithaca College writing professor. That is cool, but the book is even cooler. The novel addresses drugs, sex, pregnancy, AIDS, love, loss, grief, death, and family set against and embedded in the 1980s straight edge scene in New York City.

When fifteen-year-old Teddy McNicholas dies of a drug overdose in a small town in Vermont at the end of 1987, teenage rebel Jude Keffy-Horn, Tedd’ys brother Johnny, and new acquaintance Eliza come together in the city to struggle with holding on and moving forward. Johnny introduces Jude to the hardcore straight edge culture, and Jude’s initiation into the vegan, celibate, drug free world is a sharp contrast to his previous life and the people in it. Meanwhile, all three characters’ lives are changed when Eliza discovers that she is pregnant.

Jude. Johnny. Eliza. Teddy. Les. Rooster. I was absolutely fascinated by every character in this novel, from the protagonists down to those who only had minor roles in a few scenes. Each one had a strong voice and motivations, and the interactions between the characters were honest and powerful. I was especially drawn to Johnny, the tattoo artist and musician who served as Jude’s guide into the scene with simultaneously coping with his own losses and secrets. I was somewhat worried that Eliza would be playing the role of Manic Pixie Dream Girl when she first showed up, brash and beautiful from the big city, ready to change the lives of our heroes, but over the course of the novel I really warmed to her. She had the vulnerability you would expect of someone her age in her situation, but an independence and strong willed personality that let her hold her own against parents, love interests, and her own fears. There are no heroes and no villains (except for maybe death and the beginning of the AIDS epidemic) in this story; each character’s flaws are on full display, but at their hearts they believe they are doing the best they can.

Henderson’s voice is as strong in her setting as it is in her characters. I know very little about the 80s punk, hardcore, or straight edge scenes in New York City. However, I imagine that the atmosphere of the time was full of the same intensity that electrifies this novel. Every page is bursting with description and emotion, so much that sometimes I felt like I didn’t know where to look or what to think. Occasionally this was overwhelming; even more occasionally it seemed unnecessary. But for the most part I was engrossed by this portrayal of a subculture rife with passionate ideals and equally passionate characters. I was fascinated by the politics and the religion, the sexual and sometimes homoerotic undertones of the culture, and the way that the people in it connect and break apart. All of this is relayed with vivid and intense description.

The novel’s “weak” point is in the plot itself, which is sometimes meandering, sometimes jagged, and mostly unresolved. At the same time, I put “weak” in quotation marks because this lack of a single focus or closed ending is fitting with the tone of the book and the characters in it. The novel captures a moment in time, and the characters go on beyond it, profoundly changed by their experiences but not stagnated within them. A more focused conclusion would artificially end their stories, when the realism of the novel dictates that they should go on. Overall, Ten Thousand Saints is a novel full of authentic characters and rich in its description of an intense, emotional era.

11/22/63 by Stephen King (2011): 5/5 stars

Yes, this is a book about a man going back in time to change the course of history. It’s not the first, and it won’t be the last. There is a plethora of media covering the alternate history that would have occurred had Hitler been killed before he could become the leader of Germany, and another plethora speculating the opposite: what if Hitler and the Nazis had won World War II? Some stories are more serious while others are more of Quentin Tarantino’s farcical Inglourious Basterds ilk. And Hitler’s rise to power is far from the only event altered in such stories. Harry Turtledove wrote a series in which the Confederacy won the Civil War, and Newt Gingrich one where the south at least won at Gettysburg. Alan Moore’s graphic novel Watchmen speculates on a United States that won the Vietnam War. Even fictional history has been changed, from Back to the Future to Doctor Who.

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