Foraging for mindfulness


Hi friends, long time no type.

This is always what happens around this time of year. As much as I say that summer is my least favorite season, as soon as the sun comes out and the weather warms up, I want to spend all of my time outside and none of it writing blog posts. I think it helps that it doesn’t get as ungodly hot and humid in Ireland as it does other places I’ve lived (and the sun and warmth aren’t givens either, so I always want to make the most of it).

Then autumn rolls around, and I start feeling like, well, I suppose a bit like hibernating animals feel as they get ready for the cold, dark days of winter. I get productive and motivated, preparing things and getting things done. Although I obviously don’t need to eat my weight in salmon or lay in a supply of acorns, I do get that “end of year” feeling around September where I start to wrap up some summer projects, start winter ones, and look ahead to my little New Year routines like setting up my bullet journal. 

I know that I fall victim to SAD, particularly with Ireland’s extremely short, usually rainy days, so having routines and hobbies and things to look forward to helps. But I love this transitional time, when the air gets crisp and the days are shorter but not too short, and when I can take my summer activities into autumn. 

I’ve gotten into foraging in the past couple of years, the fullness of the hedgerows and the lack of poison ivy in Ireland combining to create a good environment for it. I began with picking blackberries on all of my walks, sometimes coming back with a kilogram in only the half hour or hour I’d spend outside at lunch. 

I’ve since branched (ha) out to hawthorns, sloes, elderberries, yarrow, meadowsweet. Basically anything that is easily recognizable and not potentially lethal. Like, I’d love to start foraging mushrooms, but I’d definitely want to get some expert training first; I’m not about to start just eating fungi out of the ground (cue “dumb ways to die” jingle). 

I took my last foraging walk over the weekend, just before they cut the hedgerows back along the rows, in order to grab one last haul of sloes. Then, outdoor adventures completed, I turned to my indoor activity of processing my harvest. Some of the things I’ve made so far: 

  • Blackberry wine
  • Blackberry jam
  • Blackberry and apple crumble
  • Blackberry muffins
  • Blackberry cheesecake bars
  • Blackberry Bakewell 
  • Blackberry syrup
  • Elderberry syrup
  • Elderberry tincture
  • Elderberry powder
  • Yarrow powder
  • Yarrow tea
  • Yarrow oil
  • Meadowsweet tea
  • Sloe gin 
  • Hawthorn jam

And I’m still planning to try some oxymels and ketchups and a few other recipes with what I’ve got left. 

One thing I really enjoy about the process is how it almost feels like a ritual. I’ve been trying to get back into a yoga routine lately, and it feels similar, the journey of slowing down and making deliberate movements. 

There are a dozen hacks online for the easiest and quickest way to remove tiny elderberries from their bushy stems, but why do we always need the easiest and quickest options? Why would I freeze the branches for faster removable or scrape the berries away with a fork to take them off in clusters rather than individually when I could sit cross-legged on the floor, listening to music and separating the berries from their stems one by one. It’s meditative.  

Anyway, my goal for this year was to write at least 20 blog posts and this is number 19, so you’ll be hearing from me at least once more in the next few months. But as the temperatures drop and the days get shorter and I’m spending more time inside, I hope to spend more time writing as well, so I’d like to think there’ll be more than one more blog post coming along. 

I have been reading an ungodly amount of books, so there’ll at least be a few book reviews on the horizon. The kind of thing you could read over blackberry jam on toast and a cup of mint tea. 

What I ate in Lisbon

Bourdain

Last month, I spent a week in Lisbon with my husband and my parents. It was a great way for us all to meet up, visit a new city, and for the most part (barring one two-hour torrential downpour) get a break from the dreariness of Irish winter.

It was also a GREAT place to eat — as we spent the week consuming our bodyweights in pastéis de nata, Lisbon quickly became one of my new favourite food cities. Here are some of my favourite dishes we had while we were there.

Two notes:

1. A lot of the restaurants in Lisbon are family-style, so it was nice that we were a group of four so that we could share and try more dishes. Likewise, it was nice for my husband that my dad also eats meat (my mom and I are both pescatarian) — while they were both willing to stick to fish and vegetarian dishes, they were able to try some of the meat dishes like the pica pau steak that they might’ve missed out on otherwise.

2. This is not a list of “hidden gems.” One of my travel content pet peeves is when someone goes to a place for the first time, and then comes back a week later claiming to have gotten “off the beaten path” and found the “hidden gems” where “only the locals go.” Is it possible? I guess. But if you’ve gotten your recommendations from No Reservations and Somebody Feed Phil and Instagram reels (as I did), then no, you probably didn’t. And that’s okay. Just be a tourist.

Pastéis on pastéis on pastéis

On our first day, Steve and I kicked things off with the most touristy place possible: the Time Out Market. This massive food hall is full of bars, restaurants, and kiosks selling all kinds of Portuguese foods (and other cuisines as well). When we went, we made a beeline for the pastéis de nata at Manteigaria, which pretty much set the tone for the trip (I don’t think there was a day that we didn’t eat at least one pastel).

pastel de nata

Later in the week, we took a trip out to Belém, where pastéis originated. I think that the pastéis in Belém were crispier and slightly more eggy than the ones in the city, and I loved both in different ways. Mostly, I learned that the best way to eat them is fresh out of the oven and covered in cinnamon and powdered sugar.

Swimming in seafood

As a city on the water, Lisbon is famous for its seafood, and we certainly had no shortage of amazing fish and shellfish dishes. Here were a couple of standouts:

Carabineros shrimp at Ramiro

scarlet shrimp

There was one restaurant that was mentioned in pretty much every guide to Lisbon food I read and watched in the lead up to our trip: Ramiro. I’d heard you need to prepare for a long wait, but we skipped lunch and to plan for an early dinner and were seated pretty much right away. When we asked the server what we should order in addition to our own picks, she suggested the scarlet shrimp. A giant, lobster-like crustacean that the server prepared at the table by cutting in half and mixing the meat with the creature’s brains, it sounds a bit gross but we quickly got over any squeamishness once we tasted how delicious it was.

Sardine toasts at Miguel Castro e Silva, Time Out Market

sardine toast

These sardine toasts were so good we got them two days in a row (my parents arrived a day after Steve and I, so we went back to Time Out Market on day 2 as well). Big, meaty chunks of sardines topped soft yet crusty bread rubbed with tomatoes, and the fish was covered with pickled vegetables and herbs. A simple, delicious snack that went perfectly with a glass of dry white wine.

Laminas de polvo a lagariero at Tascatinga

octopus and prawn tapas

I don’t eat octopus very often because I know it’s a very smart animal and I feel bad, but I couldn’t help ordering it as one of the tapas when we stopped for lunch in Sintra in between palaces. And if I don’t intend to eat octopus again for a long time (because of the aforementioned guilt and because of it not being widely available in Ireland), I’m glad this will be my most recent memory. It was perfectly cooked, mostly tender but with just the right amount of chewiness, and covered in fried onions that gave it some extra texture.

Grilled sea bream at Restaurante A Linete, Palmela

grilled sea bream

My family is not normally the guided tour type, but we did book one day tour on our trip, a wine tour down to the Setúbal region about an hour south of Lisbon. It was definitely worth having a knowledgable guide who could explain the history and traits of the wines we tasted, and of course to have a designated driver that meant we could all sample the vinhos. After our winery visits, we were taken to a restaurant in Palmela for lunch before our return to Lisbon, and on our guide’s recommendation we all ordered the grilled sea bream. I think the main hallmark of Portuguese cooking is simple food done well, and this dish was a perfect example of that.

More food porn

I could probably go on for hours talking about some of the other dishes I loved on our trip to Lisbon, but a picture’s worth a thousand words, right?

cheese board

Cheese board, Prado wine bar — this lovely little wine bar was near our accommodation, and after a day spent grazing and snacking we were too full for a proper dinner. So this delicious cheese board (and a few glasses of amazing orange wine) was perfect. We also became obsessed with a raw sheep’s milk cheese called queijo de azeitão that just came from the local supermarket chain, Pingo Doce.

scallops and barnacles

Barnacles (and scallops), Ramiro — a lot of the reviews of Ramiro mentioned the barnacles, so we figured we had to try them. Small and salty, they were a little bit of an acquired taste, but once we got the hang of opening them they were a delicious addition to the dinner and a fun thing to try. Also those scallops were amazing.

pumpkin dessert

Pumpkin dessert, Tascatinga — another odd dish ordered based on rave reviews, I don’t even know quite how to describe this dessert. It was a bit like a lava cake, except that as soon as you put your spoon into it, it melts in to a warm and custardy mush. I have no idea if it’s a traditional Portuguese dish or a restaurant specialty, but I’m so glad I made room for dessert even after a large lunch.

bifana and super bock

Bifana, O Trevo — Anthony Bourdain is Steve and my patron saint of good food, and we always try to visit some of his recommendations on any trip. In addition to Ramiro, A Ginjinha (a hole-in-the-wall bar counter serving sour cherry liqueur), and A Tasca do Chico (a tapas bar known for its traditional Fado music) we stopped into O Trevo so Steve could try a bifana. This marinated pork sandwich wouldn’t be my cup of tea, but judging by the number of people in high-vis at the tables in this small shop, it’s an ideal work lunch. The Super Bock stout was decent too… more on that later.

fried sardines
food at pinoquio
seafood rice

Fried sardine fillets at Maratimo, Cascais and various dishes at Pinóquio, Lisbon and seafood rice at Monte Mar, Time Out Market — okay I have to stop but here were a few other favourites. Happy eating!

Just be a tourist

Lisbon

I see it all the time in travel groups, on instagram reels, in the comments of blogs and articles. “How do I avoid looking like a tourist?” “Where do I meet the locals?” “How can I get off the beaten path?” “Places to eat that aren’t touristy?”

To an extent, I understand these desires. Most people don’t want to be shunted around from place to place, talking only to other visitors at only the most overrated of tourist traps while sticking out like sore thumbs from the locals going about their days.

(Some people do, if the folks wearing matching bright green, shamrock-adorned “Smith Family Vacation” tee-shirts coming off the massive tour buses around town every morning when I’m on my way to work are any indication, but that’s their business)

And sure, there’s something to be said for not immediately being identified as someone who doesn’t know the area, especially if you’re somewhere susceptible to scams or pick-pocketers.

But whenever I see someone asking for recommendations for non-touristy locales to visit on especially their first trip to Ireland (or another country), or how to blend in with the locals, I just want to say: “You are a tourist! Just be a tourist!”

Is Killarney National Park “touristy”? Sure. But it’s also gorgeous – why would you skip it?

When someone asks what they should do on their first-ever trip to Ireland, I don’t shy away from recommending things like the Guinness Storehouse or the Ring of Kerry. The closest things I recommend to “off the beaten path” are probably places like Glasnevin Cemetery, Newgrange, and the Aran Islands, which all still see plenty of visitors but aren’t immediately at the forefront of every tourist’s mind.

I don’t even discourage them from visiting Temple Bar (although I do tell them to go for one pint max and a bit of atmosphere, then head elsewhere for better, cheaper pints). Just like if someone is visiting New York City for the first time, I will take them to Times Square. Although I’ll hate every minute of it, it’s Times Square; you have to go and see the ridiculous array of neon lights and the even more ridiculous crowds once (and only once).

I didn’t have a picture of Times Square handy but I did go see the tree at Rockafeller Plaza over Christmas, which is similar vibes

I recently spent a week in Lisbon with my parents and my husband (more on this soon). Did we visit the Castelo de São Jorge and take a day trip to Sintra? Definitely. Did we eat pastéis de nata at Pastéis de Belém and bacalhau croquettes at the Time Out Market? You betcha. Did we queue for an hour to listen to fado at A Tasca do Chico? 100%. Are these all super-touristy things to do? Yes, but we were tourists!

If you fall in love with a place and you visit it over and over, you’re not going to want to go to the same tourist hotspots. What I would recommend to someone visiting Ireland for the tenth time is not the same thing I’d recommend to someone visiting for the first. If (when) I go back to Lisbon, I won’t do the same things I did the first time.

But some of that comes naturally — as you get to know a place you discover things on your own, rather than relying on blogs and social media to guide you. Sometimes on your very first trip you stumble upon something wonderful and “off the beaten path,” but if not on vacation number one than surely on future visits.

So, as long as you’re not rude or boorish, don’t worry about “being a tourist.” Worry about enjoying your trip, enjoying yourself, and if you love it, looking forward to exploring more next time.

The best for last: Kyoto (Japan recommendations part IV)

Finally last post with recommendations for Japan! Thanks for sticking with me. If you’re planning a trip to Japan, I hope I’ve offered something useful. If you’re a Japan expert, I hope you’ll give me recommendations for my next trip that will definitely happen someday! Click here for my recommendations for Tokyo, Hakone, Nara, and Kobe, and Osaka, or read on about my favourite city of all:

Kyoto: 

I wasn’t sure what to make of Kyoto at first. As it was our last stop, I went in thinking I had seen all the temples I could handle, walked into all the little shops I could possibly walk into, eaten all the delicious things I could possibly eat. And then Kyoto proved me so very wrong. It became my favourite city we went to in Japan, and the number one I would recommend for anyone planning a trip. It has everything from the modern to the traditional, from the serious to the playful, and some of the best of every possible type of cultural aspect of the country.

Continue reading “The best for last: Kyoto (Japan recommendations part IV)”

Foodie heaven and fun streets: Osaka (Japan recommendations part III)

Osaka: 

Osaka is such an interesting city. Significantly smaller than Tokyo (2.7m people compared to the bulging population of Tokyo’s 9.3m) but double the size of cities like Kobe and Kyoto, it doesn’t feature the high-tech, futuristic style of Tokyo or the classic look of Kyoto, with their modern and traditional areas separated carefully, but instead mashes up new and old into one. Although it got just edged out by Kyoto as my favourite city we went to in Japan, it was probably the one I was most excited to visit (and if you have any wonder why, just read my “What we ate” section below).

If you missed my posts on Tokyo and Hakone/Nara/Kobe, check them out! Otherwise continue on for my recommendations on Osaka:

Continue reading “Foodie heaven and fun streets: Osaka (Japan recommendations part III)”

Little lovely places: Hakone, Nara, & Kobe (Japan recommendations part II)

Here’s part two of my recommendations for Japan! I’m going to include three sections in this one: Hakone, Kobe, and Nara, as we only spent a short time in each. To read about what we did/what I’d recommend in Tokyo, click here. And check back on Monday for recommendations on Osaka and Kyoto!

Continue reading “Little lovely places: Hakone, Nara, & Kobe (Japan recommendations part II)”